Beef Stroganoff recipe – A Russian classic

Beef Stroganoff, the classic Russian recipe of tender beef in a creamy sauce, is known the world over. The exact origins of the recipe are somewhat in dispute. However most agree that the prominent Stroganov family made the dish famous sometime in the 19th century. The first published version (1871) contained no mushrooms or onions, ingredients considered nearly obligatory today.

Elena Molokhovets, who published that first recipe, called it govjadina po-stroganovski, s gorchitsej (говядина по-строгановски, с горчицей). In English that translates to ‘Stroganoff-style beef with mustard.’ Today Russians may use an anglicized name for it: /befstroganof/ бефстроганов. That shows how the recipe has moved from its homeland around the world and back again. The recipe took on new character in that journey as well. Contemporary Russian versions of Beef Stroganoff contain innovations such as tomato paste and pasta or rice as an accompaniment. These likely appeared first outside Russia.

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Interpreting a classic beef Stroganoff recipe

As followers of this site know, I try to recreate an authentic culinary and gastronomic experience with the recipes I present here. Usually that means going back to the earliest known version of a dish then considering modern interpretations of it. The final recipe will include the ingredients and techniques that are essential to make the dish tasty and accessible yet true to its roots.

For Beef Stroganoff I reckon there are three essential ingredients: beef pieces, prepared brown mustard and sour cream. These three ingredients occur in virtually every version of the recipe you will find, starting with the earliest. The next tier are ingredients like onions, tomato paste, and mushrooms that are near essential as they occur in 80-90 percent of the recipes for Beef Stroganoff–even if they were not in the original. Finally are ingredients that add a little sparkle, occurring less frequently, like alcohol, allspice–the only spice in Molokhovets’ original– and bouillon.

The beef Stroganoff recipe

Typical of early cookbooks, A Gift to Young Housewives, where Beef Stroganoff first appeared in print, tells us only to use tender beef. The recipe says to cut the beef into small chunks (not strips), dry-marinate for two hours with salt and allspice, then sauté in butter. Because the beef barely cooks in the sauce, only one minute, it had to be a tender cut. Today many recipes recommend filet or tenderloin, T-bone or Porterhouse. And even these you should tenderize with a meat mallet. If you use a tougher cut of meat, be sure to pound them well, cut the pieces small and simmer in the sauce longer.

You’ll find Stroganoff recipes call for either chunks or strips. My recipe uses tenderized strips cut into one inch lengths–a compromise. Whatever cut of beef you choose, slice against the grain for the most tender result. Incidentally, you could substitute pork loin in this recipe for a less expensive meat alternative. Russian recipes even allow for this substitution. Sprinkle the beef pieces with 1 teaspoon ground allspice and set aside while you start the sauce.

The sauce

The other two essential ingredients create the distinctive flavor of the sauce. Molokhovets calls for prepared brown mustard. Today’s commercially available “spicy brown mustard” is nearly identical to Dijon mustard in composition and either will do in this recipe. You might also try a “Düsseldorf-style” or other German or Bavarian style mustard such as those shown below.

Russian sour cream, or smetana, is a bit thinner, milder slightly higher fat than sour cream (US) or soured cream (UK); it’s akin to crème fraîche. I’ve read a lot of complaints about commercial sour cream in the US containing thickeners and additives. However in my local supermarkets, the products contain nothing but cream, cultures and enzymes. Nevertheless I decided to make my own smetana for this recipe (of course!). I will include the process in a future post about fermented dairy products. Feel free to use any sour cream you like–or even full-fat plain yogurt–in this recipe; it won’t make much difference.

Preparing the recipe

Start with a good quality cut of beef, remove any bones, trim excess fat and gristle, and slice in half-inch wide strips. Place the strips between pieces of waxed paper, parchment or plastic wrap and pound with a meat mallet until flattened to one-quarter inch or less. If you haven’t got a meat mallet, use the flat side of a heavy knife, cleaver or other flat, heavy object. Then cut the strips into 1-inch length chunks. Season the tenderized beef with the allspice, salt and pepper. Set aside to dry marinate while you continue the preparation.

Next, slice the onions and mushrooms, if using. Neither vegetable was in the originally published recipe yet they are ubiquitous today. Personally, I despise mushrooms so I rarely cook with them. In order to serve guests a typical Stroganoff, I sauté the mushrooms first and remove them to a dish. Upon serving, I stir the cooked mushrooms into the portions for my fungi-eating friends. Sauté the mushrooms in 2 tablespoons butter for about five minutes.

Then, in the same pan, sauté the onions in three more tablespoons of butter until translucent but not browned. When the onions have softened, add another three tablespoons of butter and the tenderized beef pieces. Sauté the beef until it has begun to brown. Sprinkle the partially cooked beef pieces with 2 tablespoons of flour and continue to cook for a few more minutes.

Use 1/2 cup of wine or brandy to deglaze the pan, loosening any browned bits. Continue cooking over medium-high heat to evaporate the alcohol then add 1 cup of beef broth. (If skipping the alcohol, use 1/2 cup broth the deglaze the pan then add an additional cup of broth). Stir in 1 teaspoon brown mustard and 1 tablespoon of tomato paste. Simmer the meat and broth covered for about 20 minutes.

Finishing the dish

When the meat is tender, finish with 2 tablespoons of sour cream or smetana. Add back the cooked mushrooms now or to individual portions upon serving. Cook for about three minutes more. Serve Beef Stroganoff over mashed potatoes, egg noodles or with fried potatoes. In a Russian restaurant you’d likely be served the fried potatoes (French fries); in an American one it would likely be egg noodles. I think the dish goes nicely with any of these so choose the one that suits you.

The recipe