Hungarian Dobostorta (Dobos torte)

Hungarian Dobostorta (Dobos torte) is a spectacular layer cake combining delicate sponge cake, buttercream frosting and a caramel topping. Eastern European cuisine is characterized by hearty, simple dishes–“peasant food” one might say. Lots of stewed meats, fermented foods and root vegetables populate the pages of this blog. Yet there are a few notable exceptions (beef stroganoff being one of them) where the dish was created intentionally and meant to be something “extra,” something elite or upscale. Chef József Dobos created the impressive dessert in 1885 for a national exhibition in Budapest, serving it first to the Emperor and Empress of Hungary. If Hungary has a national cake, this is it.

• 

• 

• 

• 

József Dobos was a successful cookbook author and professional baker by the time he created his namesake cake. He had studied abroad and incorporated techniques he had learned abroad into the recipe. Dobos added some innovations like the hard caramel topping and kept his recipe secret for decades, though in 1906 he donated it to the Pastry and Honey-Makers’ Guild. Most versions of dobos torte call for seven layers though it’s possible the original version only had five layers (I haven’t been able to track down a published copy). And often bakers make the cake round though some people believe the original was a rectangle. My version contains all the ingredients of the traditional recipe minus chopped roasted hazelnuts around the side. See the recipe note for adding nuts to your finished cake.

Jump to Recipe

Hungarian Dobostorta (Dobos torte) is a showstopper

The flavors in this cake are fairly common in pastries and confections (chocolate, vanilla, caramel); it’s the presentation that really sets this one apart. The cake is a bit labor-intensive and it shows. Dobos torte is perfect for a really special occasion, especially one for which you have to travel. This cake transports very well. In fact, that’s one of the reasons the cake became so successful for Dobos because he could ship it all over, increasing his renown and the dessert’s popularity. There is nothing exceptionally tricky about baking or even assembling the cake for the experienced baker. It just takes a lot of time and a lot of steps. Traditionally the top caramel layer of this cake is presented flat with the wedges scored or cut clean through; other times the caramel wedges are tipped on their sides and fanned, like mine, for a more dramatic presentation.

I recommend breaking the recipe down into four stages: making the cake layers, making the filling, making the caramel topping and assembling the cake. Pre-measuring the ingredients will also help. The butter and eggs in this recipe need to be at room temperature anyway so you might as well get everything ready up front. The recipe requires a lot of eggs (10) so be sure to add a dozen eggs to your shopping list before you set out to make dobos torte.

French or Swiss buttercream frosting?

I have seen this cake made with both French buttercream (using only egg yolks) and Swiss or Italian buttercream (using only egg whites) as well as versions that simply specify “use buttercream frosting of your choice.” My version is a hybrid French-Swiss buttercream because it uses both egg yolks and egg whites. I’ve chosen this slightly more complicated method because I don’t like recipes that leave you with unused egg yolks or whites.

• 

• 

• 

If having leftover egg parts doesn’t bother you, then I recommend using the Swiss method. You’ll end up with three leftover egg yolks which you could use in a hollandaise sauce or a custard. To do that, increase the whole eggs to 3 and set the unused yolks aside for another use. You’ll have 5 whites total for the frosting (two are left over from the cake batter), which will make a nice amount of light, fluffy frosting. When we get to making the frosting below, I’ll explain how to alter the technique for the all-whites Swiss buttercream method.

If you want to make a French buttercream frosting, I recommend using this recipe adding melted chocolate and cocoa in the amounts I specify in my recipe. The French method uses an altogether different technique where you temper the yolks with sugar syrup warmed to about 240°F. You’ll have a dozen (!) leftover egg whites from the batter and the frosting which you can use to make a meringue or something else.

A note on the chocolate for Hungarian Dobostorta (dobos torte)

The recipe calls for 10 ounces of chocolate plus a tablespoon of dutch-process cocoa. If you don’t have dutch-process (I used Hershey’s Special Dark variety), just use natural cocoa or skip it altogether. For the ten ounces of chocolate, use 8 ounces of a good quality semi-sweet (chocolate chips will work fine) plus two ounces of unsweetened chocolate. There is a lot of sugar in the frosting so we are balancing that with the unsweetened chocolate and the cocoa. I advise against using a sweeter chocolate even if that’s your usual preference.

Making the sponge cake layers

As with the frosting, you beat the egg whites and yolks separately then combine them to make the sponge layers. This recipe specifies 8 layers instead of the more common 7 because it’s easier to divide batter into eight parts (divide in half three times). But feel free to stop at seven layers. My recipe makes about 700 grams of batter so you could easily weigh out 100-gram layers if you bake using a scale. I hope you always bake with a scale.

Prepare your baking surfaces

Before you start mixing ingredients, prepare your baking surface. You have a couple options. If you have several round cake pans of the same size, you can prepare them, fill them and bake in batches. I happen to have four 9-inch cake pans so I can make this cake in two batches. I sprayed the cake pans with cooking spray and lined them with parchment rounds for easy removal. Alternatively, you can trace the outline of two 9-inch circles onto a piece of parchment, turn it ink side down onto a baking sheet and spread your batter to the edges of the circle. The batter is very foamy-thick so it won’t run.

I tried both methods for this cake. While it seems trickier in description, the drawn circles method is much easier in practice. Even using an offset spatula, it’s not easy getting the batter evenly all the way to the edges inside a cake pan. With a flat, open surface it’s much easier to spread the batter.

When drawing your circles, I advise using the outer rim of an 8-inch cake pan rather than the bottom of a 9-inch pan. If you use an 8-inch pan your circle will probably be just shy of 9 inches in diameter. You can push your batter all the way to the edges and it will expand a little when baking. If you only have a 9-inch pan, then push your batter just shy of the circle to allow for some expansion or else your layers will be even bigger than 9 inches (and thus thinner). More circumference means thinner layers and more frosting needed…each slice of cake could be less satisfying.

Mixing the sponge

Since we are going to combine whipped yolks and whites, I recommend starting with the whites because you can re-use the mixing bowl and beater for the yolks. If you start with yolks, you’ll need everything clean to do the whites. Egg whites don’t whip properly if there is any fat from the yolks in the bowl. Put the 6 egg whites into the mixing bowl and whip them on high for 2 minutes until soft peaks form. Add a half cup of powdered sugar and whip to combine, about 30 seconds. Then add another half cup of powdered sugar and whip for 90 seconds until the whites are stiff and shiny. Remove the egg whites to another bowl.

Next, place the 8 egg yolks, 1 teaspoon vanilla and the remaining cup of powdered sugar in the mixing bowl. Whip until smooth, about a minute. Fold the two egg mixtures together gently. It may help to start by blending in a few egg whites using your mixer’s whisk attachment. Then add the rest of the egg whites and fold with a spatula.

After combining the whites and yolks, sprinkle a cup of flour over them. Sift it through a mesh strainer to eliminate lumps. Add a pinch of salt and combine everything. Do not over mix. At this point, turn on your oven to 400°F. Weigh the batter and divide by the number of layers you are baking. Spoon equal portions of batter into the prepared cake pans or the parchment rounds in the quantity that will easily fit into your oven. Spread evenly to fill the circles.

Baking the layers of Hungarian Dobostorta (Dobos torte)

Put the pans into the oven and bake for 7 minutes. Remove the pans from the oven and lift the cakes from the pans. Put them on a rack to cool. Prepare a new set of pans and again spread equal portions of batter onto them. Repeat as many times as necessary to make all your layers. While the cake layers are cooling, prepare the frosting. If you stack the layers to save counter space, sprinkle them with a little flour or powdered sugar to keep them from sticking together and separate layers with parchment or paper towels.

Making the buttercream frosting for Hungarian Dobostorta (Dobos torte)

Go to the store and buy two tubs of chocolate frosting. Just kidding! But after reading this part of the recipe you might decide to do that. Feel free to substitute any chocolate frosting recipe you like using. You’ll probably need to double it, however, because there are so many layers.

As I noted above, this buttercream is a hybrid creation of French and Swiss methods in order to use up whole eggs. The only thing that makes it tricky is tempering the eggs. Since the frosting isn’t baked, you’ll need to partially cook the eggs to make them safe for consumption and for prolonged shelf life. To temper the eggs you’ll need to set up a double boiler.

Working with a double boiler

Place a small saucepan filled with an inch of water on the stovetop and set the flame to med-high heat. Choose a pan that your mixing bowl sits in snugly but be sure that the bottom of the mixing bowl is not sitting in the simmering water. Put your egg whites and half the granulated or caster sugar into the mixing bowl. Whip them together, stirring constantly as the eggs heat to 160°F. Be careful not to cook them. If you see them start to coagulate, dip the bottom of the mixing bowl into really cold water to cool them down. Once the eggs reach 160°F, remove the mixing bowl from the saucepan and put on your stand mixer. Whip the whites with the whisk attachment for about two minutes until soft peaks form. Add the remaining sugar and whip another two minutes until shiny and stiff.

Now repeat this process with the egg yolks. Whisk the egg yolks in a mixing bowl with ½ cup of powdered sugar. Place the bowl over the saucepan and stir continually until the egg mixture reaches 160°F, being careful again not to cook the eggs. Remove the mixing bowl from heat and let it cool for a couple minutes on the counter. Meanwhile cut up the room temperature butter into chunks. Add a few tablespoons to the cooled egg yolks and beat with a mixer until smooth. Stir in the remaining ½ cup of powdered sugar and then beat in more butter, a tablespoon at a time. Then beat in the cocoa, vanilla and a pinch of salt.

Melt the chocolate and combine everything

Using the double boiler set up, melt the chopped semi-sweet and unsweetened chocolate. Be careful not to get any water from splashes or condensation into the chocolate bowl or it will seize and not melt smoothly. Alternatively, melt the chocolate in the microwave on 50% power for 2 minutes or so. Stir the chocolate until smooth.

After the chocolate cools a little, stir it into the egg yolk mixture. Then gently fold the egg yolks into this with a spatula or the whisk from your mixer. It helps to start with about a quarter of the egg whites to lighten the chocolate mixture first, then add the rest of the whites.

If you decide to use only egg whites in the Swiss method, simply beat the powdered sugar with the softened butter and stir in the vanilla, cocoa and salt. Then stir the melted chocolate into the butter-sugar mixture and lastly fold in the egg whites.

If at any time your frosting seems too loose, you can add a little extra powdered sugar or put it in the refrigerator for a while. Then beat it on the stand mixer with a paddle attachment to fluff it up. Sometimes the eggs are still too warm after tempering so letting it cool down in the fridge may help you get a fluffier result.

Making the caramel topping for Hungarian Dobostorta (Dobos torte)

Inspect the cooled cake layers and choose the most perfectly formed and evenly baked one for the top layer. Set it aside on a baking sheet. To make the caramel, put ¾ cup of granulated sugar in a small saucepan with 1 teaspoon of light corn syrup and 3 tablespoons of water. Stir to combine and then heat without stirring until the mixture becomes light amber in color. If crystals form on the sides of the pan, brush with water and they will dissolve into the caramel.

When the caramel is the color you desire and before it starts to burn, immediately pour it over the top cake layer, spreading it evenly to the edge. While the caramel is still pliable, score it with a sharp knife coated with oil. Make 16 wedges in the caramel. You can cut all the way through to make separate pieces (as I did to make the pinwheel on top) or just score it deeply as a guide for cutting pieces if you want to place it flat on top. (See upper right vintage photo above).

Assembling and decorating the cake

It’s easiest to decorate this cake using a cake stand, carousel or at least a cardboard cake round. Put a dab of frosting in the middle of the cake stand (or carousel or cardboard round) and put down the first layer. Spread a layer of frosting evenly over the layer. Be mindful about how much frosting you have in total and how many layers you’ll need to cover. Don’t forget the sides and any embellishments you might want. The cake layers are really thin so don’t overwhelm them with layers of frosting that are too thick.

Place the second layer on top of the first and repeat until all the layers are used.

If you are using a flat top layer, place the scored, caramel-coated layer on the top then frost the sides. Now is the time to decorate the sides with crush, toasted hazelnuts. Working over a baking sheet, press nuts on the sides working from the bottom of the cake up.

If making a pinwheel out of caramel wedges for the top, prop each wedge up on its side with a dab of frosting or with a toasted hazelnut. Use a piping bag to create frosting anchors and to make any decorations around the base or on top of the cake. Easily fill a piping bag by inverting it over a tall glass. To evenly space the caramel wedges on top of the cake, put four anchors down (frosting or nuts) first at the four points of the compass. Then put an anchor halfway between each of these. Then another anchor halfway between these until you have 16 anchors to support the wedges. Gently lean the wedges on their sides against the anchor and gently press into the frosting making a pinwheel design. Voilà!

• 

• 

• 

The recipe for Hungarian Dobostorta (Dobos torte)