Delicious hearty Ukrainian borscht

Delicious hearty Ukrainian borscht

There are several different kinds of borscht (борщ) which roughly speaking is beet soup. Beets are the unifying ingredient in most variations, although there are some soups called “borscht” which do not contain beets such as Green Borscht–a sour soup made with greens and vegetables. More often than not when you hear someone refer to borscht they mean a characteristically red, sweet-sour beet soup.

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Making mamaliga with cheese

Mămăligă cu brânză – Romanian baked mamaliga with cheese

Mamaliga with cheese (Mămăligă cu brânză) is a baked polenta with feta cheese very popular in Romania and elsewhere in the Balkans. Baking isn’t necessary; you could prepare fresh polenta and layer it with cheese, then more polenta. People often serve mamaliga with poached or over-easy eggs, chunky tomato sauce or sour cream. You can eat it any time of day even though it sounds like a breakfast dish.

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Ciulama de pui creamed Romanian chicken

Ciulama de pui- Romanian chicken fricassee

Like many dishes on the Balkan peninsula, Romanian ciulama de pui (pronounced “choolahmuh”) has its origins in Turkish cuisine although the Turkish version (çullama) is something altogether different, referring more to a fried filled dough. Ciulama for the Romanian cook indicates the thick, rich creamy sauce in which the meat is cooked. Our version uses chicken but it could also be made with duck, veal, organ meat or just mushrooms. Using my method I was able to accommodate people who love and those who loathe mushrooms. Traditionally this dish is served with polenta or mamaliga.

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Shchi served with bread and sour cream

Shchi – Russian fresh cabbage soup

One of the most famous and arguably most telling Russian folk sayings is “Shchi and kasha are our food” (Щи да каша — пища наша). It’s not a proverb that really has an English equivalent because its meaning is about Russian-ness. What it’s getting at is the simple essence of what it is to be Russian. Despite the importation and emulation of foreign customs or cuisines over the centuries, Russian people of all backgrounds are united by a core set of simple traditions. These include the lowly cabbage soup (shchi) and porridge (kasha).  Consuming shchi is therefore part of what it means to be Russian.

Borscht may enjoy worldwide renown as the quintessential Russian soup but shchi is a much better candidate for that designation. Shchi is relatively easy to prepare and may be made with or without meat, with or without sauerkraut. Like borscht, there are many variations and everyone has a favorite. We’ll start with a very basic version but feel free to experiment and add to it as it suits you. Many Russians call this version Lenivye shchi (ленивые щи) ‘lazy shchi‘ because you don’t have to make sauerkraut first. You could add prepared sauerkraut as I did for a “Sour shchi” and I suppose that’s still considered ‘lazy.’ More on true sour shchi later.

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Vegetable stock for soups

Vegetable stock

Vegetable stock forms the basis of a good soup.  Soups are an important component of most cuisines and certainly Eastern European cooking is no exception. We will explore several soups, and whenever possible I like to start with a homemade stock. Of course, you can make a delicious and quick soup using a store-bought stock or broth. For this reason, I separate basic stock recipes from soups in case you want to put one together quickly using this convenient option.   

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Lutenitsa Bulgarian roasted red pepper relish

Lutenitsa roasted pepper relish of Bulgaria

Lutenitsa roasted pepper relish (лютеница) may be the number one food export out of Bulgaria after feta cheese and yogurt. (We will talk about Bulgarian yogurt another time).  This spicy-sweet condiment makes a delicious snack or appetizer.  Spread it on a toasted bread round or cracker, serve it with meatballs or sausage, or simply spread it on a cold cut sandwich.  Adjust the heat by using more–or hotter–peppers, or eliminate the heat altogether by omitting the chilis.  

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